Monday, 28 October 2013

The new (or second) Elizabethan age...

The following is a snippet from Edward Bond "The Third Crisis: Drama and Civilization" and some observations that he made about the new Elizabethan age 

“The first Elizabethan age ended with the discovery of brave new worlds (and incidentally the joining up of the United Kingdom). We are certainly on the edge of vast new unprecedented worlds, cosmic changes in culture, economy and society (and ironically the possible dissolution of the United Kingdom). But are our new worlds brave, cowardly, explorative or degenerative? It could be said the old Elizabethans plundered the new worlds. Perhaps now we can only plunder ourselves and call it trade."

In response to this i have began to explore images that i believe reflect a new elizabethan age in regards to make-up, hair and styling.

Photo found:http://thebigfatindianwedding.com/2012/anjalee-arjun-kapoor-recap-aamby-valley-india-bridal-week-2012/
Viewed on: Friday 25th October 2013

Make-up: Within this image the makeup is a far cry from that of the classic Elizabethan woman, the only thing you can really relay is the arched eyebrows on the face, however these are thicker than what the average woman would have had. Although this image has little to offer in terms off foreseeable evidence of the desired Elizabethan make-up of the 16th century, it rather shows how far we have come in terms of make-up and the desired looks of today and i believe it shows a nice contrast for the NEW Elizabethan age.

Styling: The outfit in particular with this image really reflects a new Elizabethan age with cultural influence.The amount of detailing on this dress reflects the classic elizabethan dresses that would have adorned the woman's bodies, along with the extravagant neck piece that lays across one shoulder. The extreme contemporary twist however is the fact that this is a two piece with the mid-rif on show, something that would never of been imagined in the first Elizabethan age but does however reflect perfectly a fashion that is current within the new Elizabethan era.

 Hair: The hair is very modern with a swept back updo almost reflecting what you would see if you were to see an Elizabethan woman without a wig. The updo also adds a masculinity to the look and further frames the face. The hair here has less height than that you would have seen in the first Elizabethan age, this reflects contemporary influences of what the modern woman would wear now.




Photo found:http://tellusfashion.wordpress.com/tag/up-and-coming-designers/
Viewed on: Saturday 26th October 2013


Make-up: Within this image the makeup is pale skinned with flushed cheeks and slightly coloured lips, however the tone of the lip colour is more orange rather than red. The first modern twist. Next the skin has a lot more contour and shape added to the face and to also warm up the complexion far more than that of a classis Elizabethan womans ability.

Styling: As far as the styling goes, the classic waist hugging corset style dress at the top, however the sleek shoulder straps and pencil skirt bottom that finishes just below the knee is the ultimate contemporary twist to a classic design.

Hair: and as for the hair you can see the classic heart shaped look the Elizabethans like to use within their hair or neck pieces to shape the face and head. Here they have used this shape from the parting and had it come slightly from the side to create a more relaxed twist to the classic shape, and used masses of volume and height much the same as the Elizabethan woman would have done to show strength and power for the modern woman.



Photo found: http://misslowesays.blogspot.co.uk/2011/02/london-fashion-week.html
Viewed on: Saturday 26th October 2013


Make-up: The makeup within this image follows the rules of pale skin and slightly flushed cheeks, however as a contemporary twist the look shows that a more brown muted colour has been used to contour and blush rather than the classic rouged colours you would expect from the 16th century. The eyes are strong and add definition and strength to the face. The lips are muted out and are 'barely there' a far cry from the red lips the Elizabethans required. This image uses a neutral toned palette for inspiration and to really update the look and bring it into its own within the new Elizabethan era.

Styling: The dress within this image appears to be a dress to create false shape to the hips and to make the waist appear smaller, something that the Elizabethan women of the 16th century would have worn as one of many a undergarment beneath their extraordinary gowns. The fact that this is being shown as a dress to be worn and see contrasts magnificently with the old Elizabethan age and brings us the new contemporary and modern Elizabethan age.

Hair: The hair within this image is swept back and up into a turban style head piece, this not only is adding culture to the new era that is upon us but the style of the head piece itself takes influence from the many different things that would adorn a woman's hair in the 16th century. This hair style is very contemporary and modern and lays the land for a new Elizabethan age with further regard to the modern day woman.



Thursday, 17 October 2013

The Elizabethans- Who they were?...


When someone mentions the Elizabethans you are automatically transported to all thoughts of what has been dubbed 'the golden age' in Britain. This ran through the entire duration of queen Elizabeth I's 45 year reign, that began in November 1558 and ended on the 24th March 1603. During this time Elizabeth was seen to grow from a girl into a woman and overcome so many challenges and much diversity about the sheer fact that she was a woman in charge of such a powerful country from such a young age. However despite this she over come it all and became one of the most powerful and influential women to date.

This age was known also as one of the richest Britain has seen and many things were being discovered from the new world in terms of food, fabrics, lotions and potions.
Although considered to live extremely 'rich' lives, the average life span of an individual was around 40 to 50 years of age, and by this point you were considered to be old. Things such as medicine were not as they  are today and many people ended up killing themselves due to conditions of living or things woman might use on their skin i.e. lead would result in lead poisoning.

Those who lived in the time of the Elizabethan era lived in a time of experimentation and many a things were being introduced and imported, it was known as a time of revolution and changes to life as they knew it. There was many movements in regards to religion connected to the monarchy and the way in which the whole country looked at religion as well as many victories that added to the wealth and power that Britain had in those years such as the gain over the Spanish Armada.

The elizabethans lived in a dangerous yet exciting time which in the modern day some may consider to be fortunate or unfortunate.






Information source:http://www.bbc.co.uk/history/people/elizabeth_I

Friday, 11 October 2013

Technical lesson- week 1- cleanse, tone, moisturise...

You have 3 main steps to your face... 

CLEANSE                      TONE                     MOISTURISE

(and the occasional exfoliation if you have dry skin)

These 3 steps prep your skin in the morning and clear your skin at night, and if your as addicted to make-up as i am, its essential that you do this everyday twice a day. Make it a ritual. I now cant fall asleep until i've done these even at 3 in the morning, sad i know but its become a slight obsession of mine. So why do we do this? Let me fill you in...

Step 1: Cleanse

We use cleanser to remove our makeup and clean the pores. Now some people just go straight in with cleaner and a cotton pad at a full face of make-up. But me? i like to use a make-up wipe and scrub my face and eyes and get off as much as i can first. Then in i go with my cotton pads and cleanser. I smooth it over the skin first and then go back in and scrub in circular, upwards motions this gets the blood flowing and feels amazing! i normally go in twice but this is due to that little obsession i mentioned earlier.
Now if your cleansing someone else's face it's best to have them face a mirror, stand behind them and do it that, using two cotton pads doing both sides of the face at the same time. Don't forget that neck and Remember circular upwards motions always.

Tips: 
  • If your doing someone else's face if there wearing contacts go extra careful and check if they would rather remove eye make-up themselves
  • If anyone (meaning contact wearer or not) has alot of eye make-up on don't be afraid to ask them to do it themselves they can go a little harder than you can and it speeds it up and you can just tidy around afterwards.

Step 2: Tone

Now toners the next step, these can come in spritz form or screw cap. Now as easy as a spritz makes your life, theres nothing that feels more affective than loading up that cotton pad with toner and lathering it all over your face and feeling that tingle. I call it the 'clingle' (clean tingle) its when you know you got it. This step cleans off any left over cleanser that could possibly left, gets rid of all remaining dirt and closes them pores back up. Dream product right?

Working on someone else? Same principle as cleanser. Long strokes, circular upward motions Don't forget the neck! Both sides at the same time. Simples!

Step 3: Moisturise

This is the last step. So close to being able to roll into bed and forget the day for a good few hours, or that last step before you can unleash your creative mind, and magic fingers on your cosmetics and create your fotd (face of the day). I know, how do you contain your excitment for either situation, honestly i don't know!
I apply this with my fingers, i dabble it all over my face and massage it in until i feel as though my skin is literally drinking it. Its really that easy and takes a few seconds
Working on someone else? Now this is when you decide how much you like them! using both hands use your fingertips to apply the moisturiser to the face and massage massage massage! 

And thats it! you can now go to sleep and not feel guilty that you have a filthy face, or put on a new face of make-up without masking yesterday's mess. 

Enjoy!

The modern day Elizabeth - contemporary style...

Photo found:http://www.newyorker.com/online/blogs/photobooth/2011/09/miles-aldridge.html#slide_ss_0=1
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013

Photo found:http://www.wicked-halo.com/2013/03/immaculee-pray-for-us.html
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013                                            

Photo Found:http://www.wicked-halo.com/2013/03/immaculee-pray-for-us.html
Viewed on: Friday 11th october 2013

These 3 images are by Miles Aldridge on a shoot named 'Immacule Numero' and were shot in 2007.
Its no secret that these images carry extremely strong connotations to the virgin Mary, who happens to be the epitome of the ultimate woman to none only than queen Elizabeth the 1st herself. These images show strong connections to the queen in her golden era with pale skin and flushed cheeks alongside thin almost none existent cheeks and rouge lips in 2 out of the 3 images. A make-up look that is known to be the Elizabethan woman's go to makeup look and the ultimate goal.
These images also remind me of Frida Kahlo the famous Mexican woman whose known for the many self portraits there are of her.
 photo found: http://www.etsy.com/market/madonna_virgin_mary
viewed on: Tuesday 3rd December 2013
photo found: http://woodsydude-gkcrocks.blogspot.co.uk/2011/12/virgin-of-guadalupe-vs.html
viewed on: Tuesday 3rd December 2013



These two images are both the epitome of new age elizabethan. Within both these makeup looks you can see strong connections to the elizabethan era.

 Photo found:http://www.sophisticatededge.com/elizabethan-makeup1.html
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013

This image has used the influence of a rouge lip, thin brows and pale complexion from the classic elizabethan style, it has then been brought into the modern age by firstly adding slightly more colour to the face by contouring slightly beneath the cheekbones. This image has then further been brought forward by creating a darker eye using browns, with a darker brown within the crease of the eye to create a darker look. As well as this they have also added extreme lashes to add drama, however the outer corners of the lashes have been coloured red, influenced by the rouge love the elizabethans had, by doing this it brings the look back together and homes in back in to the overall goal of a modern elizabethan.  




Photo found:http://alyseemilymua.blogspot.co.uk
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013


This 2nd image shows an extremely whited out complexion with the classic contrasting lip, however for a contemporary more modern twist rather than a rouge coloured lip this image uses a black  lip to bring it into the modern world, as well as ridding of the brows to extend the forehead and achieve that classic elizabethan desire of the large forehead. 











If i could... I would...

During the summer before i had even began the course my welcome package came and along with it so did 2 pieces of work to keep us all busy. I knew then that this course would be keeping me extremely busy for the next 3 years but i was ready to take it all in my stride and get it all done. 
This part of the brief was named "if i could i would" and the aim was to select 1 makeup artist of the 5 or 6 that had been listed people such as Charlotte Tilbury, Alex Box and Pat Mcgrath. Once we had chosen we then had to select 2 images that inspired us and explain how these represented our personalities and aspirations, and as a fun added bonus at the end we had to decided where we would wear these looks to and who with.
So without any further ado...

My chosen artist: Lisa Eldridge
Why: Because she's fab


My two chosen images:
       
Photos found: http://lisaeldridge.com/gallery/editorial/
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013


I chose Lisa Eldridge because I find her work to be continuously flawless from her videos demonstrating everyday wearable looks to her more editorial shoots such as her collaboration with Tim Walker for LOVE magazine.

These two looks created by Lisa Eldridge are two that i admire for many a reasons. I believe these reflect my personality in a brilliant way.These looks are simple and subtle on the base, however have bold layers as the make-up builds. This shows my bold personality that is however slightly subtle and shy at times (mainly when you first meet me, once i'm settle theres no stopping me) 

As for my aspirations i believe these pictures reflect this perfectly. The strong eye and lip colours reflect my aspirations to become a strong figure within the world of make-up artistry, and the flawless skin reflect my aspiration to myself be continuously flawless within my work.

For these looks i believe the perfect destination would be lunch in the sun on a rooftop terrace with Nelson Mandela who is bold with his opinion yet simple on his outlook. 

Oh how fabulous!!





Dali and Schiaparelli - The Lobster dress 1937...


Photo found: http://twirlingclare.blogspot.co.uk/2011/06/lobster-dress.html
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013


My initial reaction to the lobster dress is how subtle it is as a piece created by Dali. This dress itself is very reserved and elegant, more suited to the period in time it was made, compared to the outrageous lobster g string he also created. The lobster for Dali represents a shock factor and a way in which he could express his devotion to surrealism to many a people. It further represents a more risqué message that carries sexual connotations, however this is what Dali wanted as he knew that it would catch peoples attention.
As far as the nature of the image, it was created through a professional portrait, in which had been prepared for. 
The image itself tells a story of a woman looking to love. Wallis Simpson whom is wearing the dress, had these taken in france before her marriage to the duke of Windsor. The image is screaming for attention, partly the reason why i believe Wallis chose to enrobe herself within such a controversial and sexual dress for the time. The images further highlight this with the soft lighting and camera angles that capture her romantic longing. The way in which Wallis looks to the side shows off her jaw line adding to the dimensions of the picture, adding more angles to the image and attempting to distort slightly the soft romantic vibes this images gives off.
The photographer Cecil Beaton appears to have attempted to create a much less obnoxious image for Wallis. By using the big bundles of twigs as a prop in each hand combined with a camera angle that is slightly off centre, allows for Beaton to tone down the provocative aspects that are so highly associated with the lobster dress and try and hone in on a much softer less controversial woman that she wants Wallis herself to be. This was cleverly manipulated by Beaton and actually aloud her to create an image that had far more layers to the romance, frivolity and sexual connotations that would so obviously come with the images. 

However contrastingly to what Beaton has done, i believe Wallis herself was after a far more risqué and sexual shoot to really get the attention of the public and have people talk about her. The image now portrays Wallis as a woman who was caught in controversy but was however so blissfully unaware of the the messages the dress she wore held and stood for. Simpson however as much as wanting to shock the public may have also favoured the outcome of the pictures that captured even Vogues attention as it showed her in a far more naive light and in return help her reputation in being not so risqué for her time and the role she played within society.

I believe the image was created for Wallis to capture the attention of her husband however the public were a bonus and for Beaton, anyone who could truly appreciate both her photographic and artist skill. Both women appear to have succeeded in capturing there intended audiences without pushing out one another. The piece means romance, sex and pure decadence in a way thats almost subtle to add further dimension and layers to the piece.

Thursday, 10 October 2013

Books as inspiration...

I was browsing around the book store when i found two books that i had a flick through and had a quick read of the 2. These gave me and insight into Elizabethan history and gave me a basic understanding of what the Elizabethans were all about. These have allowed me to produce a basic understanding. I now feel that i have a basis to develop on and begin to create Elizabethan and contemporary references.





Monday, 7 October 2013

Manteo Portrait...

Photo found:http://hamptonroads.com/2008/04/queen-isn’t-smiling-owners-her-portrait-are
Viewed on: Monday 7th October 2013

This image of Queen Elizabeth the 1st was taken in the latter part of her life, when not many portraits were allowed by the queen, as she had began to show age in her wiser years.
It is believed that this portrait was possibly painted by Marcus Gheeraerts the Younger, however this is still an on going investigation as to who truly painted this gaunt image of the virgin queen.
Due to her extremely vain personality it is also believed that its highly likely that the queen never managed to view this particular portrait of herself, as if she had it is more than likely that it would have been destroyed due to the the way the portrait highlights the wrinkles that have become her and the shrinking silhouette that would be cast within the shadows of the woman that she once was.
This image to me no longer screams a queen who is powerful and courageous, it more resembles the person in which she was when she first took to the throne in 1558, An innocent, elegant woman whose naivety would become her.
From this image it is plain to see the many a royal fabrics and textures within the queens garments and jewels, However the colour white is reaching out and grasping onto the idea of purity and forcing upon her people once more herself in her purest form to ensure everyone remembers their queen as the virgin who would not marry due to her unconditional love for her country.
The background for this portrait is a blank black canvas a colour that would ensure to be a start contrast from her all white garments and burnished orange locks. I believe the queens idea behind this and the entire portrait was to continuously convey the strong message that she is and will forever be the virgin queen.


Information found:http://hamptonroads.com/2008/04/queen-isn’t-smiling-owners-her-portrait-are

Tuesday, 1 October 2013

The new Elizabethan era...

For the first 10 weeks of my new course the unit i am studying is based upon period makeup, specifically the Elizabethan era from the the 16th and early 17th century. The aim by the end of the 10 weeks is to be able to create a makeup look using the face/body to creatively show a contemporary twist on the the classic elizabethan looks, which will be judged based on a 2 hour long timed assessment. Therefore practice is key to really allow myself to know exactly what i'm doing and also to be able to complete the desired look effectively and within a timely manner. There is also a further twist to the assessment, each of us will not be creating our own design but one of our fellow artists designs based on an in detail brief and face chart in which they must provide.
We are expected from the start to work in an employable and professional manner as to help prevent bad habits. This unit will see us be assessed in a "social and cultural context" and help with skills such as communication and collaboration with fellow creatives, all skills of which are transferable to the industry.


Photo found: http://glamourdaze.com/2013/01/the-history-of-makeup-lipstick-allure.html
Viewed on: Friday 11th October 2013